Letter from Maria Tunno, Baden, to Charlotte Susannah Raikes, 1820 August 6 and 12 : autograph manuscript signed.

Postscript at head of page stating that they are going to see "our Princess Royal at Luisberg", and that Stutgard is a nice town, but "gay on Sunday as any Catholic City," and they expect to be in Milan in October. Letter expressing gratitude for the letter received in Antwerp; cautiously celebrating Charlotte's recovery and expressing relief at hearing that Anna is also feeling better; sharing Augusta's relief at the news; expressing distress at the uncertainty with regard to letters inherent to traveling, and frustration with the inability to express all she is feeling in letters; remarking that upon arriving in Brussels, they found preparations for a great Fete underway (the celebration of the Holy Miracles) which takes place "only every fifty years"; noting that they decided to extend their stay two days longer since members of the party may never get another chance to see this ceremony; noting the differences between Catholic and Protestant religious feelings and ideas; noting that it difficult to comprehend the constant endeavor to embody in representation the history of their Saviour; observing that Brussels has an air of "fete" and that ornamentend trees are planted in all the principal streets; noting some similarities between English and German horses and equipages; next they went to the German spa city Aix-la-Chapelle, and then Waterloo; remarking on Waterloo and the "unnumbered Brave"; describing meeting Dr. Caster, who Napolean Bonaparte "detained for a guide" and who described to Maria and her party the terror he experienced during the first two hours of battle; remarking on how, during the four to five hour walk, Dr. Caster recalled Bonaparte's instructions not to dodge upon seeing a cannon, because it would frighten those nearby who might think you were killed; reflecting on both the importance of this day (June 18, 1815) and the suffering it produced; remarking that bullets and fragments are still offered by the peasantry; they continued to Spa, where "every arrangement tends toward pleasure and amusement"; describing a ball they attended where ladies were admitted gratis, and permitted to enter the adjoining rooms of the ball, where gambling was taking place; describing being more interested in the gambling than the dancing; describing the surrounding country as very pretty, and the mineral water as very powerful; remarking that Mrs. Lyon from Portland Place had settled there for three months to help one of her daughters; remarking on seeing Peter Paul Rubens' work again, and the pleasure of seeing his paintings in churches as opposed to the Louvre Museum, where she previously saw most of his best pictures. Letter continues on August 12, remarking on their "exquisite tour up the Rhine" and describing the scenery, with its vineyards and cornfields, as "the land of Ceres"; the weather threatened to be unfavorable, but they were able to see a perfect sunrise and sunset; noting that their plans to depart every day at four or five in the morning are difficult to keep because of their plans to attend balls and theaters; asking Charlotte Susannah to tell Mr. Raikes that she finds knowing a bit of German "a perfect luxury"; noting that traveling with advantage requires a great deal of preparation, and that quickness and neatness are indispensable; expressing dread regarding the continual entrance of men into Chambers; noting that she and Augusta have chosen to be independent and refused assistance; noting that Mr. Francis joined them at Brussels, and that Mr. Francis is a perfect companion for her brother Edward, and he is an able guide because he had visited the area years ago; asking Charlotte Susannah to tell Mr. Raikes that their landlord at Frankfort, a "venerable German near 80" took a fancy to them, put bottles gratis in the Carriage, and kissed their hands at departure "with much ceremony"; remarking that the theater is very good, and felt she was able to understand most of the performance they saw; stating that she found the costumes of all ranks curious, and that the Germans dress their hair beautifully or wear curious caps; sharing that she enjoys perusing journals and maps; sharing that their Swiss tour will commence that week, and that they will be chiefly on mules until they reach Geneva, where she hopes to find a letter from Charlotte Susannah, and if not there, at Milan; she is impatient to hear news from her family in Paris; wishing for more room to describe an entertaining ball at Baden; feeling highly pleased with Germany except for the smoking; remarking on passing through the Black Forest; describing both liking and disliking Bonaparte's', noting his roads, his improvements, and his devastations; sending best regards from Augusta and Edward.